A TYPICAL WEEK’S TRIP
ABOARD FANTASY ISLAND
Sunday
We’ve arrived in Tortola! We had to change planes in San Juan and the 40-minute
flight to the British Virgin Islands took us over many of the islands we hope to visit this
week. The water looks wonderful and the beaches!!! We can’t wait!!!
A van took us from the airport to the marina. There was plenty of room for all of our
bags and us and we had a comfortable ride to Village Cay, where Fantasy Island was waiting for
us. She was easy to find, as she dwarfed all of the other boats. What a beauty! Photos don’t
do her justice. Our crew was waiting for us with welcome-aboard drinks and a light lunch, making
us all feel comfortable right away.
After lunch we were off on our adventure! In just minutes we
were under full sail, speeding toward an island in the distance that Colleen said
was Jost Van Dyke. We marveled at how quickly and easily we sped through the
water with very little of the rocking motion we’d associated with sailboats in
the past.
We bypassed Great Harbour, (Foxy’s is located there) because it looked
a little crowded in the anchorage and instead we sailed onward to White Bay, motored
through a narrow opening in the reef and anchored in shallow water with a white sand bottom.
What a beautiful spot! On one side of us was a colorful coral reef with lots of fishes,
and on the other, a wonderful sandy beach. We couldn’t decide whether to go snorkeling on
the reef or walk on the beach, so we did both!
Dinner was wonderful. After a selection of hot appetizers including
Brie cheese wrapped in phyllo pastry, Peter grilled steaks for us on the barbeque
while Colleen stir-fried a vegetable medley to go with them that created beautiful visual appeal.
(She commented that first we eat with our nose, then with our eyes and finally with our mouths.)
We had a wonderful Cabernet-Shiraz wine with dinner – a blend from South Africa that I hadn’t heard
of before. Dessert was a delicious chocolate mousse that Colleen somehow whipped up during the
sail over from Tortola.
We were planning to visit Foxy’s in the dinghy after dinner, but by then we were
all so relaxed we decided to just stay on the boat, listen to some music and leave Foxy’s for
another trip. After a couple of after dinner cordials we all turned in early looking forward
to tomorrow’s adventures.
Monday
Despite our good intentions we didn’t get up until 9. Tomorrow we’ll do better!
Colleen had fresh-baked muffins, cereals, coffee and juice out for early risers, then produced
Nutty Pancakes with orange butter and nutmeg syrup for a sit-down breakfast after we’d all opened our eyes. As if by magic,
all of our cabins were cleaned and the beds made while we were having breakfast. Jim and
Matt wanted to have another look at the reef with its colorful tropical fish, and so did John
and Freddy, so we decided to delay our departure until after lunch. Bill and Trudy dinghied ashore
to the beach and bought some nice souvenirs at a small hotel at the other end of
the bay. Then we all went ashore and hiked over the hill to get a little exercise and to have
a look at Foxy’s. We bought some tee shirts and vowed to return there for his weekly pig roast
next year.
In the afternoon we sailed to Marina Cay, just off the eastern tip of Tortola. It
is a small island surrounded on one side by a big reef, which protects the anchorage making it
nice and calm. We went ashore for drinks during happy hour and enjoyed listening to Michael
"Beans" Gardner, a one-man band who plays guitar and harmonica and keeps time by
stamping on a case of Heineken. He reminded us of Jimmy Buffet and had us laughing at his
outrageous songs and banter. We swaggered back to the boat saying "Arrr" a lot.
(What’s the last letter in the Pirate alphabet? "Arr...") We had a chilled soup,
Rack of Lamb for the main course, and a Kiwi-Mango cheese cake for dessert. Yum!!
Tuesday
Today we managed to get up a little earlier – all except Bill and Trudy that is –
who didn’t show until mid-morning. We had scrambled eggs and bacon, fresh breads and fruits
for breakfast then raised the sails and were off for
Virgin Gorda. On the way we passed several
large monohull sailboats upwind. John, who has sailed all of his life, was amazed that we were
actually pointing higher into the wind than the monohulls, sailing at 9 to 10 knots in a 15 to
20 knot breeze while our drinks sat on the table safe and sound, with no intention of moving
from their appointed places. We passed the monohulls like they were standing still! Matt
steered much of the way there with Peter’s help. Pete is a patient teacher and Matt is learning
fast! We sailed up to North Sound and anchored near The Bitter End Resort. Maynard and Evie
took a dinghy ride to go see Biras Creek, where friends of theirs stayed last year. I joined
Jim and our son Matt on a kayaking trip around the harbor. Later we went
around the point with Pete to scuba-dive on the outer reef.
Pete took Matt tubing behind the
dinghy. He’s got so much to do he’s having more fun than he did on our trip to Disneyland
last year! Later in the afternoon we spent some time at the Bitter End Resort, had a drink
ashore then returned to Fantasy Island for dinner. We left the main anchorage and motored to a
remote area behind the outer reef (bareboats aren’t allowed here so it wasn’t crowded at all)
and we anchored here for the night, perfectly sheltered from the waves but with the gentle
sound of surf in the background. What a relaxing sound. There was a nice breeze and we decided
to turn off the generators and enjoy the peace and quiet of this beautiful place. There was a
new moon today and I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many stars! We lay on the trampoline
with Irish coffees, trying to identify the constellations. John identified the most and so we
voted him honorary captain for the sail to Anegada tomorrow.
Wednesday
We had a light breakfast so we could get an early start for Anegada, sailing past
Necker Island on the way out. Necker Island is a small private island owned by Richard Branson,
who owns Virgin Atlantic Airlines, originally developed as a retreat for family and friends. It has
become one of the most exclusive and luxurious vacation spots in the world renting for $28,000
per day, but we all decided that the view from Fantasy Island was better, and that we were
probably having more fun than their guests were.
John said that the last time he sailed to Anegada it took him about 4-1/2 hours to
get there but it only took us around 2 hours, not counting the stop for some snorkeling and
scuba diving on Anegada’s famous reef along the way. The reef was just opened up to
recreational snorkeling and diving recently, having been off-limits for several years, and
the coral is magnificent!! We sailed all the way up to the end of Anegada, anchored off the
eastern point and took the dinghy around the corner, where we found a seemingly endless beach
with nobody in sight and great snorkeling on the reef just offshore! Pete had to drag us away
to return to the yacht in time to take her back to the Anegada Reef hotel, where we went ashore
for a fresh-caught lobster dinner to give Colleen a well-deserved night off. The crew works so
seamlessly and efficiently that keeping the boat clean and running well seems effortless, but
we all know that they are really working their tails off from dawn till after dark and
appreciate the great service and the ever-present smiles. The lobsters were huge and delicious.
Thursday
Today we had a fast and relaxing down-wind sail back from
Anegada. We almost decided to return to that beach on the other side of the
island – we could have easily spent another a full day there, but decided that
we’d save it for another trip – something else we could look forward to.
In no time we were back at Virgin Gorda, where Pete took us ashore at Leverick Bay
and arranged for a taxi to take us on a tour of the island, which is about 10 miles long. Our
driver first took us up to Virgin Gorda Peak, where we had a great view of North Sound and the
surrounding islands, then we stopped at Little Dix Bay, a five star resort (we still like
Fantasy Island better!). We stopped at the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor marina for lunch at a
local English-style pub and picked up a few odds and ends at the various stores located there.
Next we drove to a bar high on a hill overlooking The Baths (we’ll go there by boat tomorrow)
where we had refreshing Pina Colladas, and finally to the end of the island at Copper Mine Point.
The cab returned us to Savanna Bay, where Fantasy Island was waiting for us at anchor - Another
perfect spot with a reef on one side and a long, perfect sand beach on the other. Pete brought
the dinghy in and picked us up right on the beach. The scuba divers went diving with Pete while
Jim, Matt and I enjoyed some water-skiing and tubing. Pete promised to teach Matt to windsurf
tomorrow. Dinner consisted of Caesar Salad, broiled mahi-mahi with caviar butter, and key lime
pie for dessert. Tonight Jim and I decided to turn in early and watch a movie in bed. Jim picked
"The Deep" which we’d never seen. It was of particular interest because the underwater
scenes were filmed on the wreck of the Rhone, which the others will be diving on tomorrow.
Friday
We woke up at before 7 in the morning. We were already under way and Laila was
preparing breakfast, which we ate while sailing down the coast of Virgin Gorda.
We arrived at the baths before 8 and went ashore to beat the crowds. We were the first ones
there and had a great time climbing between the huge rocks and bathing in the natural pools
that they formed. We found the trail to Devil’s Bay and went there for a swim, then returned
to the boat just as dozens of others boats were starting to arrive. We sailed down past Ginger
and Cooper Islands and anchored in the lee of Salt Island where we went ashore, met the
small local community and were shown around the salt pond, which still produces a small amount
of sea salt and provides a bag a year to the Queen of England as rent. The divers went off
with Pete to dive on the wreck of The Rhone, a Royal Mail steamer that sunk during a hurricane
and the most famous wreck in the BVI. She lies in two main pieces in 35 to 110 feet of water
off the southeastern tip of the island. They came back raving about the dive, which was the
highlight of the trip as far as they were concerned.
We anchored at Peter Island later in the afternoon and Matt finally got his
Windsurfing lesson while Jim and I followed him in a kayak. Maynard, Evie and Bill went
diving while John, Freddy and Trudy decided to take it easy. Tonight we had stuffed mushrooms
for an appetizer, then BBQ jumbo shrimp-kebabs with couscous and blackbean salsa. Colleen
whipped up decandent vanilla hearts for dessert (where does she find the time to do all this??)
Saturday
In the morning we moved around the corner to half-moon bay,
a picture-perfect anchorage with a crescent-shaped beach kept in immaculate
condition by the Peter Island Yacht Club. We took the dinghy ashore, walked
to the hotel, shopped for a few souvenirs and then had a swim before returning
to Fantasy Island for lunch consisting of cheeseburgers in Paradise (gourmet edition), a garden salad
and another of Colleen’s fresh-baked breads.
That afternoon we sailed to Norman Island where we spent
time trying out the wakeboard (challenging but fun), windsurfing and visiting
the caves around the corner of the island. At the caves, schools of fish
surround you looking for a handout when you jump in the water. John and Freddy,
our dyed-in-the wool scuba enthusiasts, took one last shallow-water dive off
the point, as they don’t fly out until late Sunday afternoon.
For dinner, Colleen pulled out all of the stops. First
a delicious local pumpkin soup, then a West Indian curried pork tenderloin in pineapple boats with native vegetables, and a fresh-baked apple pie for dessert (Jim’s
favorite – and a special request). We selected a sparkling rose wine for the
meal. After dinner we enjoyed good company and a variety of after-dinner
liqueurs before turning in for our final night on board.
Sunday
I can’t believe the week is over already! Today we had Coconut 'n Rum french toast
for breakfast, and then sailed over to The Indians for one last snorkel before returning to the
dock. There are so many places that we didn’t have
time to visit. Next time, Maynard wants to try
some bone fishing at Anegada and we all want to spend more time at that fabulous beach on the
far side of the island. We didn’t dive and snorkel at Lee Bay, one of the spots our friends
recommended to us, nor did we get to visit Green Cay or Sandy Cay off Jost Van Dyke, snorkel the
Dog Islands, or visit the infamous "Willy T", a raucous floating bar and restaurant,
while we were at Norman Island. Next time we also want to anchor overnight at Great Caminoe
where there’s a small bay behind a reef that only two or three boats can visit at a time, rent
a jeep to tour Tortola on our own, visit Cane Garden Bay and spend the evening ashore listening
to Quito Rhymer and…the list goes on. Next time Matt and I will probably have our scuba
certification and we’ll all do more diving, too. This was unquestionably the best vacation any
of us has ever taken! Colleen packed us goodie bags to supplement the airplane food (or lack of it)
and sadly we all said goodbye to Fantasy Island, Peter and Colleen as our taxi waited.
We couldn’t imagine a better yacht, a better crew or a better time and we’re already
starting to make plans to come back again next year.